Culture · Ancient towns
Lijiang is beautiful—and it knows it. So does Zhouzhuang. The crowds and commercialism at China's most-visited ancient towns can make it hard to feel the history. These five towns have similar (or better) scenery and architecture, with fewer people and more authentic atmosphere. Each suits a different travel style.
Fenghuang ("Phoenix") sits along the Tuojiang River in western Hunan. The old town has wooden stilt houses (吊脚楼, diào jiǎo lóu) built directly over the water, connected by stone alleys and red-lantern-strung bridges. At night when the buildings are lit up and reflected in the river, it's one of the most photogenic scenes in China. Writer Shen Congwen was born here; his former home is a quiet museum.
High-speed train to Jishou or Huaihua (both have HSR stations), then a 1-hour local bus or taxi to Fenghuang. Alternatively, fly to Zhangjiajie and combine the two destinations—Fenghuang is about 3 hours away by bus. From Changsha (the Hunan capital), it's about 5–6 hours total. Travel time: half a day from most major cities in central China.
Walk the riverside alleys early morning before tourist groups arrive. Cross the stepping stones to the old district. Visit the North Gate Tower (北门城楼) for elevated views. Explore the Miao minority crafts—silver jewelry and batik cloth are local specialties. At dusk, take a river boat (¥30–50) for the lit-up evening view. Try the local sour and spicy rice cake and river fish.
Entry fee: ¥148 for a combo ticket (includes most attractions). Stays 1–2 nights; book a guesthouse (客栈, kèzhàn) inside the old town for atmosphere. Go on weekdays—weekends and holidays are increasingly crowded. The alleys are narrow and flood occasionally in summer rain; check weather. Cash is useful here; mobile pay coverage is OK but not universal.
Xitang is the most accessible of the Jiangnan water towns from Shanghai—about 1.5 hours by bus or transfer. It's famous for its covered arcaded corridors (廊棚, láng péng) running alongside canals for over a kilometer, protecting pedestrians from rain and sun. You may recognize it from Mission: Impossible III, which filmed here. Compared to Zhouzhuang and Wuzhen, Xitang has a slightly more local feel in its less-visited alleys.
From Shanghai: take metro to Shanghai South or People's Square bus hub, then a coach to Xitang (about 1.5 hours). Alternatively, combine with Hangzhou or Suzhou. From Jiaxing (on the Shanghai–Hangzhou HSR line), local bus to Xitang is about 40 min. Day trip is very doable; overnight gives you the evening atmosphere.
Walk the full length of the canal corridor; then cross the bridges and explore the narrower lanes on the other side. Boat rides (¥100 for the whole boat or join a shared ride) show the town from water level. Visit the Xichang Street area for local snacks and vendors. At night, bars and small restaurants open along the main canal—the atmosphere is relaxed and photogenic with lantern light on the water.
Entry fee: ¥100 for main attractions; wandering the streets is mostly free. Gets crowded on Shanghai-area holidays; go midweek or arrive early morning.
Tongli is quieter and more intimate than either Xitang or Zhouzhuang. Just 18 km from Suzhou, it's often overlooked by visitors rushing between cities—which means you can walk its stone bridges and canal alleys without the shoulder-to-shoulder crowds. The highlight is Tuisi Garden, a UNESCO-listed Qing dynasty private garden that's one of the finest examples of Suzhou-style garden design anywhere.
From Suzhou: bus (about 45 min) or taxi/Didi (about 30 min). From Shanghai: bus from Shanghai Coach Terminal or HSR to Suzhou then bus. Best as a half-day or full-day trip from Suzhou; overnight is possible if you want the quieter morning atmosphere.
Tuisi Garden (UNESCO) is the must-see; arrive when it opens. Walk across the three famous arched bridges (三桥) for good luck—they're close together and the canal views are excellent. The old residential area has courtyard houses you can peek into. Local specialties include fermented bean curd and fish-head soup at restaurants along the water.
Entry fee: ¥100 combo (includes Tuisi Garden and other sites). Calmer on weekdays; local students and Suzhou day-trippers dominate the weekend crowd rather than tourist groups.
Hongcun is a UNESCO World Heritage village in Anhui province that's arguably the most cinematic ancient settlement in China. The whitewashed walls with grey tile roofs reflect in the central Moon Pond (月沼) and South Lake (南湖)—it's the village that appeared in Ang Lee's Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon. Art students from across China come here to paint outdoors; you'll often see easels set up around the pond.
Best base: Huangshan City (also called Tunxi, 屯溪). High-speed train from Shanghai (~2 hours) or Hangzhou (~1.5 hours) to Huangshan North (黄山北). Then local bus or taxi to Hongcun (~1 hour). Combine with Yellow Mountain (Huangshan) for a 2–3 day Anhui itinerary—Huangshan is one of China's most spectacular natural sites and worth adding.
Walk the Moon Pond (best reflections at dawn and dusk), explore the carved wooden interiors of the Wang Family Ancestral Hall, and wander the village lanes. The South Lake view at golden hour is the classic shot. Beyond Hongcun, nearby Xidi village (another UNESCO site, 20 min away) has similar architecture and is less visited.
Entry fee: ¥104 (includes village admission). Stay overnight in a village guesthouse for the best photography light—the tour groups arrive and leave during daytime. Autumn foliage (Oct–Nov) is spectacular.
Pingyao is the most complete walled city from China's Ming and Qing dynasties (14th–20th century)—and it's a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Unlike the water towns, this is a city: 6 km of city wall, 3,797 ancient courtyard houses, and the best-preserved traditional street plan in China. It was once the financial capital of China during the Qing dynasty, home to the country's first banks (piaohao). It feels like stepping into a 19th-century Chinese market town.
High-speed train to Pingyao Ancient City Station (平遥古城站) directly from Beijing (~3 hours), Xi'an (~3 hours), or Taiyuan (30 min). The station is conveniently inside (or very close to) the old city—you walk out and you're there. A perfect addition to a Beijing–Xi'an itinerary.
Walk the full city wall (6 km; best at sunset). Explore Ming Qing Street (明清街) for shops and snacks. Visit Rishengchang Exchange House (日升昌), China's first draft bank and now a museum. The County Yamen (official government office) and City God Temple round out the main sites. Try Pingyao beef (平遥牛肉) and aged vinegar (老陈醋)—Shanxi specialty products.
Combo ticket (通票): ¥145, covers all major attractions including city wall. Stay at least 1 night in a courtyard hotel (客栈) inside the walls—the evening atmosphere after tour groups leave is excellent. The town is entirely walkable; no vehicles inside the walls (mostly). Avoid national holidays when it gets very crowded. Winter is quiet with possible snowfall that makes the architecture even more striking.
Spring (April–May) and autumn (September–November) are the best seasons for all five towns—comfortable temperatures, good light, and manageable crowds on weekdays. Avoid Golden Week (Oct 1–7 and Jan/Feb Spring Festival) when crowds multiply and accommodation prices spike. Booking accommodation inside the old town at least a week ahead is advisable; for Pingyao and Hongcun in high season, book earlier. Bring RMB cash as a backup—mobile pay is widely accepted but ATMs and signal can be limited in the alleys.
Entry fees and transport connections can change; confirm locally or through your accommodation before visiting.